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Clothes still damp after a full cycle, or a drum that spins with no warmth at all, is one of the most common appliance calls technicians get. The good news: a lot of these cases don’t need a technician. A tripped breaker, a clogged lint screen or a blocked vent cause a big share of no-heat problems, and you can check all three in about 15 minutes without tools.
If those checks don’t fix your dryer not heating, the cause is usually one worn part, such as a heating element, thermal fuse, thermostat or gas igniter. Most of those repairs cost $85–$280. This guide walks through it in the order a technician would.
10 Common Reasons a Dryer Won’t Heat
| Cause | What you’ll notice | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Tripped breaker (electric) | Drum turns, no heat at all | Reset the breaker |
| 2. Clogged lint screen | Weak heat, long dry times | Clean or wash the screen |
| 3. Crushed or kinked vent hose | Dryer runs hot outside, clothes stay damp | Straighten or replace the hose |
| 4. Blocked vent or outside hood | Weak airflow outside, lint buildup | Clean the vent, clear nests |
| 5. Blown thermal fuse | No heat, sometimes no start | Replace fuse, then fix the airflow that blew it |
| 6. Burned-out heating element (electric) | No heat, everything else works | Replace the element |
| 7. Bad high-limit or cycling thermostat | No heat or heat that cuts in and out | Replace thermostat |
| 8. Failed igniter (gas) | No glow, no flame | Replace igniter |
| 9. Bad gas valve coils or flame sensor (gas) | Igniter glows but no flame | Replace coils or sensor |
| 10. Control board or timer fault | No heat on any cycle, error codes | Diagnose and replace |
If There’s No Heat at All: Check the Breaker
Electric dryers run on a 240-volt circuit, usually a double 30-amp breaker. The motor and lights only need half of it, so the drum can spin and the light can work even when the heating side has tripped. That’s why “runs but no heat” is so often a breaker problem, especially after a storm or power outage.
- Find the dryer breaker in your panel. Newer panels are labeled.
- Switch it fully off and count to 10.
- Switch it back on and run a heated cycle.
If the breaker trips again, stop using the dryer and call a technician or electrician; that points to a short.
If It Heats a Little: Fix the Airflow
A dryer needs strong airflow to heat properly. When air can’t move, heat builds up inside, safety parts cut the burner or element off, and clothes take forever to dry.
1. Clean the lint screen
Hold the screen up to the light. You should be able to see through it. If you can’t, air can’t get through either. Pull the lint off, and if fabric softener has left a waxy film, scrub the screen with warm soapy water and a soft brush, then let it dry. Replace a torn screen.
2. Check the vent hose behind the dryer
The flexible foil hose often gets crushed or kinked when the dryer is pushed back. Pull the dryer out and make sure the hose is straight, fully round and short. Replace crushed foil with semi-rigid metal duct.
3. Test the airflow
Disconnect the hose from the back of the dryer and run a heated cycle for a few minutes. If you feel strong, hot air coming out of the dryer now, the dryer is fine and the problem is in the vent run or the outside hood.
4. Check the outside vent
Go outside while the dryer runs. You should feel a strong stream of air and see the flap open. Lint, snow, a pile of leaves, shrubs or even a pet lying against a low vent can block it. In spring, birds often build nests inside the vent, and a nest can block the whole run. Clear it, or book a professional vent cleaning ($100–$200) for long runs or roof vents.
When a Part Has Failed
Electric dryers
- Thermal fuse: a one-time safety fuse that blows when the dryer overheats. Replacing it without fixing a blocked vent means it will blow again.
- Heating element: a coil that can break or short. A technician tests it for continuity with a meter.
- Thermostats: the high-limit and cycling thermostats switch the heat on and off. A failed one can stop heat entirely or let it cycle too often.
Gas dryers
- Igniter: should glow orange, then light the burner. No glow usually means a bad igniter.
- Gas valve coils: if the igniter glows but the flame never lights, or lights and then drops out, the coils are the common cause.
- Gas supply: make sure the gas shutoff valve behind the dryer is open. If you smell gas, leave the house and call your gas company.
Brand Notes
- Samsung: many models show a heating error code such as “HE” when the dryer can’t heat. Clean the vent and lint filter, then reset by unplugging the dryer for a few minutes. Repeated codes usually mean a heating element, thermostat or sensor issue. See our Samsung dryer heat repair guide for step-by-step fuse and element testing.
- LG: LG Flow Sense codes “d80”, “d90” and “d95” warn that the vent is 80%, 90% or 95% blocked. Clean the vent before calling for heater repairs.
- Whirlpool and Maytag: both use many of the same parts. A blown thermal fuse on the blower housing is one of the most common reasons these dryers stop heating, usually after a vent blockage. See our Whirlpool fuse and thermostat tests and the Maytag element replacement steps.
- GE: on newer models, a burned purple heater wire at the heater pan is a common cause. Our GE dryer heat guide covers it.
- Kenmore: many models share Whirlpool parts, so the same tests apply. For meter readings on any brand, see our multimeter test guide.
How Much Does It Cost to Fix a Dryer That Won’t Heat?
Dryer repairs typically cost $80–$450, averaging around $180, with parts and labor included.
| Repair | Typical price (parts + labor) |
|---|---|
| Thermal fuse | $85 – $165 |
| Cycling thermostat | $90 – $180 |
| Heating element | $130 – $280 |
| Igniter (gas) | $100 – $200 |
| Gas valve coils | $115 – $210 |
| Control board | $180 – $450 |
| Dryer vent cleaning | $100 – $200 |
If your dryer is over 12–14 years old and the repair is a control board, compare the price with a new dryer first.
Find Dryer Repair Companies
Dryer not heating even after checking the breaker, lint screen and vent? Search for appliance technicians in your area, compare reviews and request free quotes. Mention your brand, gas or electric, and any error code.
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Questions and Answers
Why is my dryer not heating but still running?
On electric dryers, the most common cause is one half of the 240-volt breaker tripping, so the motor runs without heat. After that, a blown thermal fuse, a burned-out heating element or a bad thermostat.
Will a clogged vent stop a dryer from heating?
Yes. Poor airflow makes the dryer overheat, so the safety thermostat shuts off the heat and can eventually blow the thermal fuse.
How do I reset a dryer that won’t get hot?
Turn the breaker off for 10 seconds or unplug the dryer for a few minutes, then turn it back on. Some older dryers also have a manual reset button on the back panel.
Why did my dryer stop heating after a power outage?
A power surge or outage can trip one side of the dryer’s double breaker. Reset it fully off and on.
How do I know if my dryer heating element is bad?
If the breaker, lint screen and vent are fine and there’s still no heat on an electric dryer, the element is a likely cause. A technician confirms it with a continuity test.
Why is my gas dryer not getting hot?
Check that the gas valve is open. If the igniter doesn’t glow, it’s likely the igniter; if it glows but won’t light, it’s usually the gas valve coils.
How much does it cost to fix a dryer that’s not heating?
Usually $85–$280 for a fuse, thermostat, heating element or igniter, including labor. Control boards cost more.
Is it worth repairing a dryer that won’t heat?
Usually, yes. Most no-heat repairs cost far less than a new dryer, especially for dryers under about 10 years old.
How often should I clean my dryer vent?
Clean the lint screen every load and have the full vent cleaned about once a year, or sooner if drying times grow longer.
The Bottom Line
For a dryer not heating, start with the free checks: reset the breaker, clean the lint screen, and make sure the vent hose and outside vent are clear. If heat still doesn’t come back, a technician can replace the fuse, element, thermostat or igniter, usually for under $300.
About This Guide
Written by David C and reviewed by the Repairior Editorial Team using manufacturer service guidance, dryer safety recommendations and national repair cost data. Steps vary by model; follow your owner’s manual where it differs. Businesses can’t pay to change our guides.
Safety resources: U.S. Fire Administration: clothes dryer fire safety and CPSC.
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